Turn the corner

Breeching from the U-Bahn, escaping the underworld with its damp and consistent odor, seeking fresh air and instead finding war. Smoke filled the air and drifted in rivulets across the barricaded streets, swirling around us, turning the unknown into the unforeseen. Remnants of the wall, spray-painted memories of a terrible time, huddle among the glass facades of Potsdamer Platz, looking out over the Holocaust memorial. The sound of shattering glass, the crack of firecrackers like gunshots, vaguely visible figures dodging in out of the mist, the smell of alcohol almost tangible in some corners, the street littered with remnants and rubbish, all ghosts of a past not long ago and not forgotten.

The crowd--the living, breathing, drinking, pushing mass--sweeps the streets. Any and all in its way are swept up in the current until a police barricade halts the flow. Firecrackers ricochet from the buildings and smolder sullenly in the gutters along the road. Unofficial launch pads dot the streets and the crowd keeps a respectful distance. The country mouse startles at large cracks, clutching purse and sister, towed along until there is nowhere else to go. The anticipation is almost tangible, though almost overwhelming.

No one is exactly sure of the time, until about the last twenty seconds and someone begins counting. Across the street and above the trees explode the first of the official fireworks. Cameras and cell phones are held above the masses, seeking to document, swaying like peculiar antennas, feeding the new YouTube. Lovers kiss, friends hug and wish one another a happy new year, the couple behind us bickers about his cell phone, some kids behind us begin to sing, swaying arm in arm, and someone sprays champagne through the crowd. Fireworks rocket around us like good wishes and we stand arm in arm, bouts of fire reflected in our shining eyes.

The crowd dissolves into chaos, singing, dancing, spraying champagne and tossing crackers into the cleared streets or air. Slowly; walking normally is possible if hindered by the bottles littering the street but we make it more or less back to the station and buy some glasses of champagne and some roasted almonds, watching the tourists stagger and take pictures with sparklers. The street acts as an acoustic chamber, amplifying the cracks and bangs of the rockets shooting out of the crowd. Debris rains down; a gap in the crowd is an invitation for black cats or other small diversions and we jump aside to avoid a small lump of red paper, which suddenly springs to life and began to spin and glow with green fire. The first of the sirens wail in the distance, trying to force their way through the crowds towards the first of the unlucky or careless.

Near a million people were expected, with a two kilometer party mile between the Gate and the Victory Column, though all intermediate streets were equally full. We’d gotten in just under the wire, having spent the evening with K.’s school friends and family, and had no chance of getting to the gate itself but it didn’t matter. The party mile, for those who wanted to come earlier, was the site of several stages and performances, and turned into an open-end disco in the New Year. Over 500 people injure themselves every year and the ambulances frequently shove their way through, but the atmosphere is always positive. Strangers wish one another well, children are towed along by their parents, the crowd itself a celebratory beast, enjoying living, enjoying being where they are.

The New Year has come, for better or for worse. But somehow, standing arm in arm, watching the fireworks bloom above us, it’s hard to believe the next year will be anything but good.